The old commercial city on the north bank, still doing what it has always done, with the souks and the dhow wharves in it.
Deira is the north-eastern bank of the Creek and was for most of the twentieth century the commercial centre of Dubai — the souks, the wharves, the banks, the trading houses.
It is now the part of the city most visitors skip and the part most worth their time. It is dense, low-rise, crowded, entirely unglamorous and full of people getting on with things.
The population here is overwhelmingly South Asian, Iranian, Somali and Emirati, and the streets are commercial rather than residential in feel.
What is here
The Gold Souk, the Spice Souk and the Perfume Souk, all within a short walk of Al Ras metro.
The dhow wharfage along the Creek, where wooden boats load for Iran, India and East Africa. This is a working port, entirely open, and it is extraordinary.
The Waterfront Market for fish, dates and produce.
Naif Souk for textiles and cheap goods. Al Ras for the old merchant houses. Baniyas Square as the commercial heart.
Eating
Deira has the best cheap eating in Dubai. Iranian, Afghan, Pakistani, Indian, Somali and Yemeni restaurants throughout, most of them small, most of them very good.
Al Ustad Special Kebab is in Bur Dubai across the water but is the same tradition. Aroos Damascus does Syrian. The Yemeni places around Naif do mandi — rice and slow-cooked lamb — that will feed three people for the price of a coffee downtown.
Getting around
The Green Line runs through it with stations at Al Ras, Baniyas Square, Palm Deira, Union and Salah Al Din.
The abra across the Creek connects it to Bur Dubai for one dirham and is the right way to move between the two halves of the old city.
Streets are narrow, crowded and not built around cars. Walking is the only sensible option, and in summer it is only sensible after dark.
Etiquette
This is a conservative, working part of the city, and dress accordingly — covered shoulders and knees for everyone. Photograph people only with permission, particularly women.
During Ramadan, eating and drinking in public during daylight is restricted, and Deira observes it far more visibly than the hotel districts do.
